Embrace the "Eat Everything" Philosophy: Savoring Life's Richness with Italian Nonne
Discovering the Unseen Pillars of Italian Gastronomy
Imagine delving into the culinary secrets and profound life philosophies passed down by countless Italian grandmothers. This is precisely the journey embarked upon by Vicky Bennison. Through her acclaimed 'Pasta Grannies' online community and documentary series, Bennison has engaged with over 500 elderly Italian women, offering a window into the cherished kitchens of these beloved nonne to millions worldwide.
From YouTube Sensation to Culinary Author: The Evolution of Pasta Grannies
Bennison, based in London, initiated the 'Pasta Grannies' YouTube channel in 2014. Her inspiration stemmed from years spent in Italy's Marche region, where she observed that only the older generation continued the tradition of handmade pasta. Recognizing a potential loss of this rich heritage, she felt compelled to document it. These women, often unacknowledged, are the very foundation of Italian culinary art, a fact Bennison sought to rectify. Her efforts bore fruit as the channel gained immense popularity in August 2018, now boasting over a million subscribers. Beyond the digital realm, Bennison has authored three cookbooks, with her first earning a prestigious James Beard award. Her latest work, 'Eat Everything: Pasta and Beyond for the Good Life,' was released by Rizzoli on September 8.
The Philosophy of 'Eat Everything': A Holistic Approach to Food and Life
The title of Bennison's newest book encapsulates a common sentiment expressed by these grandmothers when asked about their favorite dishes: "Signora Vicky, I eat everything!" Bennison highlights that we can draw invaluable lessons from these women's intentional, zero-waste approach to food preparation. The book extends beyond pasta, featuring recipes for a diverse range of dishes including breads, pizzas, pastries, rice, meat, and desserts, all reflecting a philosophy of appreciating and utilizing every ingredient. It emphasizes a sustainable way of living that celebrates the abundance of available food.
Timeless Wisdom for a Well-Lived Life from the Nonne
Through her extensive interactions with these remarkable women, Bennison has gained profound insights into living la dolce vita, the good life. She notes that their lifestyle, rather than just their diet, is particularly striking. The core wisdom she distills includes maintaining an active social life, nurturing a passion that ignites daily motivation, and staying physically engaged. "Our ladies are always occupied, always moving, always active," Bennison observes. She posits that this energetic way of life is key to enduring health and vitality in old age.
Rosa's Cicatelli con Ciambutella: A Taste of Campania's Rustic Charm
Nestled in Campania, Grottaminarda is a vibrant town where traditions thrive, including bakers delivering freshly baked bread door-to-door. Rosa, a spry 95-year-old, has spent her entire life here. A woman of remarkable character, she possesses a keen love for tongue twisters and proverbs, which she recites by heart, a mental exercise as enriching as any crossword puzzle. She proudly demonstrated her hand-washing routine in a special sink in her cellar, making the art of pasta-making seem effortless in comparison. Her cellar also held a year's supply of passata and the ingredients for ciambutella, a recipe she graciously shared.
Crafting Ciambutella: A Homage to Summer's Bounty
Ciambutella is a traditional rustic vegetable sauce from the region, with variations passed down through generations. The name, derived from "ciambuttia," meaning "messed up" or "confused," aptly describes this chunky sauce that celebrates the vibrant produce of summer. Rosa's sister-in-law, Angiolina, who lives nearby, cultivates the specific plump, round peppers and succulent tomatoes essential to this sauce. Rosa typically pairs her ciambutella with cicatelli pasta, known locally as cavatelli.
The Recipe: Cicatelli con Ciambutella
This delightful dish serves 4 to 6 people. To begin, prepare fresh cicatelli or use 1 lb 2 oz (500g) of store-bought cavatelli. For the ciambutella, you will need 4–5 large, fleshy round bell peppers (or other sweet pepper varieties), a scant ½ cup (3½ fl oz/100ml) of extra virgin olive oil, 4–5 garlic cloves, 6–8 ripe tomatoes, 2 cups (1 lb 2 oz/500g) of tomato passata (homemade if possible), a pinch of dried hot pepper (chilli) flakes (optional), a large bunch of fresh basil (preferably with large, frilly leaves), and sea salt.
Preparation Steps: From Garden to Plate
First, prepare the pasta dough if making it from scratch. While the dough rests, begin the ciambutella. Deseed the peppers and chop them roughly. In a large skillet, heat a generous amount of olive oil and add the peppers along with whole garlic cloves. Season with a generous pinch of salt and sauté until the peppers soften. Remove the peppers, then quarter the tomatoes and fry them in the same oil. Pour in the passata, return the peppers to the pan, and simmer until the flavors meld into a harmonious blend. Adjust seasoning as needed, and add a pinch of peperoncino if desired. Then, proceed with cooking your pasta.
Finishing Touches and Preservation
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the cicatelli, and stir to prevent sticking. Cook for approximately 4 minutes, or according to package instructions for cavatelli. While the pasta cooks, add a splash of water to the ciambutella if it appears too dry. Tear fresh basil leaves and add them to the sauce, allowing their aroma to infuse. Once the pasta is cooked, drain it and return it to the pot. Ladle in some ciambutella, tossing to coat the pasta evenly. Serve in bowls, topped with an additional spoonful of sauce. To preserve ciambutella for winter, prepare the sauce without garlic and basil. Sterilize jars by boiling them for 20 minutes, fill them with the sauce, and continue boiling (uncovered) for another hour. Seal the jars and cool them inverted before storing. Add fresh garlic and basil when ready to use the preserved sauce.
