Embrace Your Inner Universe: Adorn Yourself with Meaningful Pieces from Don't Let Disco
The Mystical Dawn of "The Opening" Collection
As fashion embraces a more ethereal aesthetic, from the flowing chiffons seen at Colleen Allen to the siren-inspired accessories at Chloé, Ashley Moubayed's latest collection for Don't Let Disco, "The Opening," offers an invitation to delve into this mystical realm. Her designs encapsulate practical enchantment through carefully selected natural elements, including rediscovered treasures, sunlight-infused crystals, and the subtle glint of desert diamonds.
A Legacy of Intuition and Connection to the Earth
Moubayed often speaks of her lineage, jokingly referring to it as a "line of witches," while conversing from her Dumbo studio, which is adorned with an antique apothecary cabinet brimming with vivid gems and vintage ornaments. Her silver Totem chain necklace, laden with unique charms such as iridescent pearls, a vintage cigarette case, and "pools of light" rock crystals, embodies this connection. These translucent spheres, believed in the Victorian era to possess magical qualities through their deceptive shadows and light refractions, were the genesis of her initial fine jewelry collection. She painstakingly secured these potent orbs into necklaces, bracelets, and earrings using traditional 19th-century wire-wrapping techniques to preserve their inherent power.
Artistic Foundations and Design Philosophy
Moubayed emphasizes the modularity of her creations, stating, "Everything we do is meant to be built upon." She demonstrates this by adding a quartz bangle-pendant to her Totem necklace, creating a harmonious yet unconventional arrangement reminiscent of Calder's work. Her knack for harmonizing diverse shapes, dynamic components, and organic textures stems from her extensive background in art and design. Before establishing Don't Let Disco five years ago, Moubayed spent five years at Sotheby's, managing marketing for an eclectic range of antiquities, from rare books and Renaissance art to 20th-century decorative pieces.
Echoes of History in Contemporary Adornments
Moubayed fondly recalls her time at Sotheby's, where her colleagues would attest to her consistent desire for "curio cabinet themed" photoshoots. Her inspiration was fueled by numerous design catalogs showcasing midcentury modern furniture and art, such as Jean Royère's surrealist tables and lighting, and Jean-Michel Frank's soft, naturally textured chairs. She notes the deliberate and precise craftsmanship of these periods, where "everything was very proportional and considered, and materials—they really meant something." This deep appreciation for historical design confidence, be it midcentury modern's clean lines or Art Deco's geometric precision, profoundly influences her work.
A Cosmic and Flapper-Inspired Fusion in Jewelry
Her jewelry pieces elegantly blend Art Deco and midcentury influences. She showcases a wooden pompon tassel adorned with a cascade of smoky semi-precious stones, transforming a simple string of beads into a sautoir—a fashionable accessory for flappers. These intricate designs coexist with sleek, 1960s space-age-inspired creations. Her "Universe pendants" feature colorful semi-precious stone discs, miniaturized to palm size, resembling distant planets. Encased in fine silver wire, they gracefully hang from sterling "Keeper collars," maintaining a fluid elliptical form, evoking intergalactic marvels.
Childhood Fascination and Inherited Collecting Instincts
Moubayed's lifelong affection for rocks began with a childhood book from the Cleveland Children's Museum, which elucidated the scientific origins of various rock formations. She remembers a drawer in her childhood home overflowing with rocks she had collected. "One day, my mom opened it, and an avalanche of rocks spilled out," Moubayed recounts, adding, "My solution was that I'm not going to stop doing this, I'm just going to bring home less. I would be out and think, 'Oh my God, there's seven rocks here and I can only take three!'"
Family Heritage and the Art of Observation
She attributes her collecting impulse to her Libra nature, but acknowledges its deep roots in her maternal family, particularly her grandfather, who meticulously amassed a collection of stamps celebrating historical Black figures during his tenure at the United States Postal Service. Most of these stamps were not officially released until the Black Heritage stamp series began in 1978. Her grandmother, on the other hand, collected buttons of varying textures, colors, and sizes, transforming them into fluid mosaics of floral arrangements and landscapes. This shared ability to perceive potential in unconventional materials is a unique bond between them. Moubayed describes her grandmother as her "best friend." In her teenage years, Moubayed would source jewelry from second-hand shops, dismantle them, and reassemble them into new bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. This visual connection extends to her acute sense of smell. "(My grandmother) would literally hug you and knew who you had hung out with," Moubayed remarks. This sensitivity has led her to curate Frederic Malle perfumes, which she uses to delicately scent Don't Let Disco packages, adding a personal touch.
Literary Muse: Crafting Jewelry with Character
Literature also serves as a profound source of inspiration for Moubayed. Charles Dickens's Great Expectations is a particular favorite, often guiding her creative process as she designs unique pieces in her studio. She frequently asks herself, "Which character are we designing for today? Is it the whimsical and kind-of-crazy Miss Havisham? Is it the practical and earnest Pip? Is it the mysterious and elusive Estella? Who are we designing for?"
Celebrating Imperfection: A Design Philosophy
This character-driven approach informs every stage of her design process. Just as literary heroes possess their flaws, Moubayed selects stones, embracing their inherent charm and imperfections. Early in Don't Let Disco's journey, she visited a lapidary on 47th Street and was captivated by a bin of discarded rings, damaged during the jeweler's process. For Moubayed, these misshapen edges and nicks were akin to freckles or laugh lines – unique markers of personality that bestowed a singular beauty. She envisioned transforming them into longer strands. Among her initial purchases, a rock crystal ring with damage beyond repair for resale particularly caught her eye; she reserved it for a personal necklace.
The Potent Allure of Quartz: A Personal Connection and Shared Experience
"Do you know that this particular necklace is the one, of all the pieces I wear, people always want this precise one?" Ashley recounts, recalling an instance with Sherry McMullen of McMullen Boutique, who immediately desired the unique piece. "I'm like, 'Sherry, there's only one!'" Quartz, in its various forms like rock crystal or rose quartz, has long been associated with metaphysical magnetic properties. These stones frequently appear in Moubayed's designs, from crystalline Totem charms to the Victorian pools of light from her earlier collection. She shares a heartwarming anecdote of a friend whose repaired necklace, containing quartz, baroque pearls, and a ceramic evil eye charm, seemingly brought him luck, leading him to find his dream apartment, fall in love, and secure his ideal job. "He's back in his necklace, and he is loving it," she states, highlighting the personal significance her pieces hold.
A Sanctuary of Stone Modalities and Creative Expression
Moubayed's studio is a treasure trove of diverse stone modalities. Lapis for healing, citrine for abundance, and onyx for grounding are just a few examples, offering something for every individual's needs. This philosophy extends to her popular beading bars, where clients are invited into her studio to select from bowls of beads and craft their own unique pieces. Moubayed reveals, "I've never been able to meditate. I've always been a little bit insecure about that," but finds profound peace and comfort when engaging in beading and working with her hands. Her newest collection champions personal expression, fostered within her dedicated space of artistry and meticulous craftsmanship. "I like to cater to the collector, and if you're collecting something, I want you to be able to have all these different reconfigurations of it," Moubayed asserts.
Highlighting Key Pieces: From Totems to Deco Rings
The Totem Chain, available in 30-inch and 17-inch lengths, stands as the collection's centerpiece, allowing for endless customization with its delicate paperclip links and charm holder. Its elegant brushed silver finish also provides a subtle option for minimalists to adorn with one or two charms. The collection also features Jewell lighters, named in homage to her jewelry-collecting mother, who introduced her to Victorian pools of light. These lighters, encased in polished silver, are adorned with a vibrant burst of multicolored stones and pearls at their base. Furthermore, the Deco rings, with their substantial bands, polished surfaces, and gently rounded edges, are embellished with champagne and mocha-colored diamonds, ethically sourced in collaboration with De Beers Desert Diamonds.
Empowering Individuality: "You Pick Your Own Universe"
Moubayed challenges the pervasive influence of external trends, stating, "We're now in this space where everyone's telling you how to cultivate your own taste, how to dress, what to wear." She emphasizes that "The Opening" serves as a gentle encouragement for individuals to confidently express their authentic selves. "You pick your own universe," she concludes, inviting wearers to embrace their unique style and narrative through her distinct jewelry designs.
